Walking in Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park

Kilauea Iki Crater Overlook

author & artist L. Peat O'Neil

October, 2020

Santa Clara de Cobre :: Copper Artisans in Mexico

Patzcuaro, Uruapan and St. Clara de Cobre. 

For a weekend excursion by car from Mexico City, follow the toll road west from 

La Capital towards to Toluca and Morelia to the towns of Uruapan, Patzcuaro and the magical artisan community St. Clara de Cobre.  

Lago de Patzcuaro is a volcanic lake and home to the early indigenous tribe that worked copper, said to be the only copper artisans in Central America. 

They used copper for their hatchets and other weapons as well as to make containers.  

Recommended buildings for visitors to visit in Patzcuaro include Casa de los Once Patios (House of the Eleven Patios), Biblioteca Gertrudis Bocanegra with the celebrated murals bv Juan O'Gorman and the Basilica.

The market area includes House of Eleven patios offers souvenir goods, however a few shops tucked away off the main walking route, do sell authentic hand-woven cotton cloth, copper containers and decorative creations, placemats, and inlaid wooden items.  

Survey the entire shopping area before buying, not to search for better prices, but unusual items or better quality work and design.

Tzintzuntzan is the meso-American archeological site above the town, the area of the Chichimecas tribes. Bring along a guidebook for historical perspective. In the town of Tzintzuntzan, the Franciscan Monastery grounds were planted by the Spanish monks with olive trees that are still growing there fine hundred and ten years later.  

In Uruapan, to the northwest of Park Eduard Ruiz which lies in a deep ravine, there’s a liquor store (address: 87C Pino Suares)  an outlet for the liquor factory, located outside of town.  They sell sugar cane liquor (aka rum or charanda), in various flavors.  Charanda Dorada el Terasco is a favorite. 

I bought coffee flavored liquor, remembering my student days in Toronto, when we would make the delicious potion at home with raw alcohol (Ever-Clear) and thick coffee syrup made with excessive doses of powdered espresso coffee concentrate.  You were supposed to let it cure for a few weeks, but I always seemed to crack open the bottle early.  Four months after buying this Mexican coffee liquor, it is still sealed.

In the copper shops in the village of Santa Clara de Cobre, you can watch artisans at work.  The fierce banging of mallets and shaping tools on the dense copper shapes could be a drawback for visitors, so bring ear plugs if noise bothers you.  This town is famous for the traditional artisans who work in copper. The nearby Copper Museum displays metal working tools set up and ready for use.

Ask to see the obsidian ornaments.  Copper bells and smaller objects are for sale.  The bells look a little like castanets and are similar to bells attached to grazing animals.  Oval in shape, with clapper covered by two oval sides.

Where to Stay: In Patzcuaro, the Hotel Posada Don Vasco, Best Western Hotel with pool, restaurant and attractive grounds.  Single room rates vary depending on the peso-dollar exchange rate.  Rooms numbers 501 to 507 have balconies overlooking gardens.  

Congressional Cemetery

 

Free Press? Dead Press:: Mexico's Dead Journalists

Mexico and the Free Press

Traditional media in Mexico practiced “press release journalism” in which reporters chronicle government announcements and activities based on information offered by the government.  Independent investigation was rare.  Some newspapers even treated the government issued press releases as advertisements, accepting payment for running the announcements. Still, there were journalists who were skeptical or posed investigative questions.  Yet regimes in control would deny access or control sources through intimidation or lack of response.

“In late 1990’s, the journalists often drew distinctions between government’s willingness to tolerate criticism, its willingness to furnish media with information that should reasonably be considered public.”  P. 38  Cantrell

Journalism in Mexico dates to 1722 when newspapers appeared, though scribes and writers have been chronicling daily life in Mexico since the arrival of the Conquistadores. For writers in Mexico, periods of repression alternated with periods of growth and access to information. Freedom to publish depended on the whim of government.

Today, a vigorous number of newspapers serves the reading public, but content can be anemic, partisanship obvious.  Though there are a few investigative papers pursuing active journalism, papers like La Jornada and Reforma. 

Until recently, reporters relied on government issued press releases for story sources and publishers bowed to official mandates on newspaper content.  A newspaper owner may be free to publish, but the content was controlled by the government. 

During the early decades of the 20^th century, when the stated goals of the Mexican Revolution -- free public education, land reform and labor laws  -- signaled a wave of democracy in Mexico, newspaper editors who dared challenge the motives or actions of the leaders could be jailed or their presses shut down.  

Government tactics to control editors and journalists have changed during the 20^th century. In the past an editor might be muzzled and jailed, but by the final decades of the 20^th century, the editor or writer would likely lie bleeding or dead in the street for daring to identify corrupt officials or sponsor investigative reporting.

For example, back in 1925 and 1929, Don Silvestre Terrazas, a newspaper publisher in northern Mexico, was imprisoned and his presses padlocked.  He was charged with inciting rebellion or attacking public order.  Yet during the revolution, this Chihuahua native son of one of the powerful northern families had served as liaison between Pancho Villa and Venustiano Carranza, leaders of the insurgent armies in the north.  Don Silvestre had provided arms and ammunition to the revolutionaries, but when his newspaper El Correo de Chihuahua criticized the new government, his allegiances were nullified and his press padlocked.  (p. 87-88, Mexico: Ancient and Modern) 

By mid-20^th century, corruption and subtle pressures were effective in controlling the media.  Journalists are informed of the ‘rules’ for maintaining presidential image and  advised in advance what issues could be addressed.  Papers that didn’t comply would suffer declines in advertising orders. Newspaper owners would dismiss a reporter who didn’t follow the ‘rules’ rather than suffer loss of financial support from the government advertising revenues. (p. 40, Lawson)  

Direct threats to journalists ensued. “…(R)elatively mild punishments were usually sufficient to drive independent media into compliance or out of business. … Organized official repression was seldom necessary.” While the last few years have seen a slacking of the “la mano dura”  (the iron hand), corrupt officials who feared exposure by emerging independent media had turned to violent repression.  Especially during the 1980’s, 60 journalists were murdered between 1980 and 1996. In 1986, Mexico claimed the dubious fame of the highest rate of journalists murdered in world. (p. 45 - 46 Lawson)

Though the violence, kidnapping and intimidation continues, the last ten years have brought improvements in access to information and protection from retaliation by corrupt officials. The emergence of international human rights organizations and vocal advocates for journalists focuses global attention on the perils of being a journalist in Mexico. Journalists in Mexico still practice their profession hampered by restrictive libel laws that carry jail terms and heavy fines.  Officials continue to be reluctant to submit to transparency laws and there’s a continuing attitude of opposition to investigative reporting.

www.article19.org   - Article 19 The Global Campaign for Free Expression

www.cidh.org   -  OAS, Freedom of Expression, Annual Report 2002 

http://www.gwu.edu/~nsarchiv/NSAEBB/NSAEBB68/  - National Security Archive

www.ijet.org  -  Knight International Press Fellowships

http://www.pulso.org - Pulso de Periodismo

http://www.internews.org/ - Manuel Buendia Foundation

http://us.politinfo.com

http://www.planeta.com/ecotravel/period/pubmexnews.html - Mexico News Seminar

www.sipiapa.org  -  Inter American Press Association (IAPA)

www.rsf.org  -  Reporters Without Borders/Reporters Sans Frontieres


www.cpj.org   - Committee to Protect Journalists

www.cipe.org/pfc  - Journalists Against Corruption

www.editorandpublisher.com   - Editor and Publisher Magazine

Columbia Journalism Review, NY, Jan-Feb, 1997, "A Freer Press Scares the
Government," Joel Simon

Toward Freedom Magazine, Dec. 98-Jan 99, “Killing the Messengers,” Ron Chepesiuk  www.towardfreedom.com

The Media Crisis…A Continuing Challenge, World Press Freedom Committee,
www.wpfc.org  World Press Freedom Committee


Lawson, Chappell, Building the Fourth Estate: Democratization and Media Opening in Mexico, Univ. of California Press, 2002

Morris, Stephen D., Corruption and Politics in Contemporary Mexico, 
Univ. of Alabama Press, 1991

Mexico: Ancient and Modern, An exhibition celebrating the acquisition of the Silvestre Terrazas Collection, Friends of the Bancroft Library/U of Cal Berkeley, 1962

Topography of Michoacan Mexico

Michoacan 

It’s said the people of Michoacan were the most difficult for the Spanish to conquer.  Perhaps because they were artisans, well organized and could provide food for themselves during privation.

Topography may be a better indicator.  Depression in landscape (neatly mowed) in this archeological site suggests carefully sculpted layouts for the foundation footings for pyramids.  The pleasant view of the lake suggests those of the princely rank had first choice of  residences overlooking the water, with mountains behind and the sky forming a panorama.  One thing is sure, the mountains haven't changed.  The layout reminds of Lake Toba, the island in the center of a volcanic lake on Sumatra, part of Indonesia.

Around the pyramid the stones were fitted by trimming which required force. Or possibly the ancient builders used water and grindstones to shape the squared stones. This is my idea, no guidebook suggests how random rocks become fitted stones to build elaborate structures.  It is difficult to imagine people chipping away at stones to shape them..  The ruined patio is surrounded by open rooms with column footings on which the roof was set.  Reconstructed along antique lines there’s a small line of stones set in the wall where the reconstruction starts.  

A turtle shape is part of the monument.  To Yacatecs this is the Temple to God of Viento (the winds).  I notice the iconic protection of turtle shell.  Shell forms are called the concha, and signify the sacerdote/ritual priest’s protection.

Black earth, red earth town called Tzin Tzun Tzan near Patzcuaro is filled with artisans.  Their activities form an important part of the local economy.   

Malinche National Park :: Mexico

La Malinche is Mexico’s fifth-highest peak at 14,636 feet, some 20 miles north of Puebla.  The summit is higher than any peak in the contiguous United States.  Many climbers use La Malinche as an acclimatization hike for other higher altitude volcanos nearby. like Ixta  and Pico de Orizaba (18,400) which is the highest mountain in Mexico. 

La Malinche, which was the name of the conquistador Hernan de Cortes’ mistress,  requires 4 or 5 hours for a summit.  The hike is about 5 miles and 4,000 feet gain. Matacoula, the goddess of rain, might well be the real name of the mountain. La Malinche being a corruption or derivation of the ancient name.

Many climbers camp in the La Malinche National Park recreation area.  The park also rents brick and stucco cabanas / cabins that sleep 6 or 9 people with prices depending on the season or size of the cabana.  Setting up a low-fee campsite the afternoon before the climb and sleeping at the park enables a 4:30 or 5 a.m. start for the hike.  Campers and cabana guests should bring appropriate clothing and sleeping bags for very cold nights.  The recreation area includes basketball courts, souvenir shops, a restaurant and rustic conference facilities.

During rainy season, the air cools down fast and washout creates potential safety hazards.

There are gullies cut alongside hiking path to allow for water runoff, but experienced hikers wait until dry season (Nov-March) for mountain excursions.   he mountain below the tree-line is densely covered with eucalyptus, conifers and dense rather attractive undergrowth.  Birds sing tantalizing melodies overhead but they stay out of sight.

At one time, glaciers covered the peak.  Now, the volcano appears to be mostly green, though there is a barren zone above 4,000 meters.  Climate change has erased the ice cap at the top for the most part.  The terrain around the base is sandy soil, corn fields, pink and purple wild flowers that might be Coreopsis family.

Directions to La Malinche.

From La Capital (Mexico City), take the "Cuenta" (toll road)  (Rt. #1500  towards Puebla. For a break, stop at Restaurant Rio Frio or Panorama Restaurant on the right.

Take the right hand turnoff towards Tlaxcala.  Continue towards signs indicating Apizaco/Veracruz (Rt. #117). Continue on the Rt. #136 towards Veracruz.
 Turn right at exit direction towards Huamantla. (near an “Acerocarbon” factory). Drive some kms more,  pass “El Tigre” sign on left side of road. Malinche volcano appears on right during this part of journey. The "Milintzi” sign indicates entry to park.

Other towns around the perimeter that appear to lead to paths:  San Juan Ixtenco, San Pablo del Monte, Trinidad Sanchez Santos, San Miguel Canoa.

Alternate route, in direction of San Miguel, go past ruins of a huge hacienda.  Sign “Tampico Restaurant Bar”.  This is a good area for sketching or painting views of Malinche.

Resources:

http://www.imss.gob.mx/servicios/centros-vacacionales/malintzi

Kyudo::Japanese Archery in Mexico City

Kyudo Kai form - fully drawn bow.

Master of Kyudo,  Sensei  Ali Zolfagharian teaches  lessons on kyudo -- Japanese archery -- in Mexico City.  Kyudo is radically different than archery I'd practiced in high school.  Our group of dedicated archers would meet on Sunday mornings at the UNAM campo de tiro con arco.

Kyudokai Mexico sponsored the classes.

Kyudo involves a very ceremonial series of movements which you practice for months before drawing the bow back.  Each movement is part of a set form and follows an exact sequence of foot and body placement through an entry processional to the archer's position.  After you practice the form and understand the body posture, you can practice drawing the bow which was somewhere around eight feet long.  

One Arrow, One Life -- the essential text on Kyudo.

You can study kyudo for years and will always be a beginner.  It's one of those disciplines, like tai-chi or yoga that becomes part of your life and calms the mind.

Skill depends on a clear memory and the ability to move in harmony with others during the entry and exit processionals.  With careful practice, the candidate advances.  


Upper body muscles may need development to engage in the demands of kyudo.  Ali Zolfagharian, the instructor,  provided a length of elastic stretch rope so I could practice the full bow opening movement.   This You Tube video displays the kyudo form.